Aubusson, world capital of tapestry, charming villages and unusual curiosities in the surrounding area

Under its peaceful air of a small provincial town, Aubusson , located in the south of Creuse, is in fact a capital, known to art lovers from all over the world. It owes this international reputation to its famous tapestry , a jewel of French decorative arts since the 15th century, listed as Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO since 2009.

The discovery of this exceptional know-how fully justifies the trip to Aubusson, and more particularly the visit to the Cité internationale de la tapisserie . A wonderful site, opened in 2016, which is both a museum and a training, creation and documentation center. entirely devoted to Aubusson tapestry, an art that is still alive. Around fifteen factories and workshops, employing nearly 180 people, are still in operation in the region.

Spanning some 1,200 m2 and two levels, the fascinating tour traces nearly 6 centuries of the tapestry epic.

After an initial section devoted to tapestries from other regions of the world, the "" Les mains d'Aubusson "" space introduces local know-how through all sorts of documents, work instruments and objects. An opportunity to become familiar with terms such as ""lisier"", ""métier"" and ""chute de métier"", ""bass-lisse"" and ""haute-lisse"", or even ""flute""… To observe the work of the artisans, the city, where contemporary creations are also woven, offers demonstrations in the professional spaces.

After discovering the world of tapestry, Aubusson, nestled in the heart of wooded hills crossed by the meanders of the Creuse, is worth a visit, for example by following the Heritage circuit available at the tourist office.

Dominated by its Clock Tower and the ruins of a castle , Aubusson is not lacking in charm with its granite houses from the 15th to the 17th centuries, its chestnut shingle roofs, its shops selling local products and its pleasant terraces. Special mention for the adorable Terrade district , whose picturesque buildings, nicely restored, are spread out on each side of a medieval bridge.

At the gates of Aubusson, nature immediately reclaims its rights and it is a joy to travel the quiet little roads of this Creuse which is both bucolic and discreet. Gently undulating, crossed by waterways and punctuated by Limousin cows, the landscapes, alternating pastures and forests, exude a real softness, particularly at sunset. And some nice surprises await the traveler…

The most beautiful of all is undoubtedly the village of Moutier d'Ahun with its delightful medieval bridge spanning the river and its abbey , where Alain Corneau filmed scenes from Tous les matins du monde. A superb setting for this Romanesque church, preceded by a flamboyant Gothic portal... As for its destroyed nave, it has been replaced by a romantic garden in which two rows of lime trees outline the missing bays!

Finally, 10 km south of Aubusson, the village of Felletin , gateway to the Millevaches plateau, is also worth a visit, and not only because it is said to be the true birthplace of Aubusson tapestry.

Even if posterity has somewhat forgotten it, Felletin, which was converted for a time to diamond cutting, has several beautiful granite residences and two Gothic churches, one of which houses remarkable exhibitions of tapestries in the summer.